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Quality control and quality assurance in the apparel industry
Interlinings, also called interfacing, are generally nonwoven fabrics that add more
structure and body to garment components like collars, button plackets, waistbands, and
cuffs. Interlinings may be fusible or sew-on.
Interlining fabric durability
is important for garment construction. Fusible interfacing can become unglued from fabric
and shift, creating rippling, puckering, and unevenness. Hence, the fusible interfacing
should be tested for their performance for defects such as cracking, bubbling, and
delamination during their regular use. Fusible interfacings are susceptible to the
adhesive bleeding through causing darker spots on the surface called strike-through.
Fusible interlinings are assessed for their ability to stay bonded to the fashion fabric
and not shift during wear and cleaning. They are also tested for compatibility and
shrinkage. Compatibility indicates good drapability, bulk, and support of the fabric at
the attachment point. Shrinkage can cause puckering of the attached point and bubbled
appearance. The three parameters such as temperature, pressure, and time should be
appropriately selected to avoid improper interlining attachment.
However the quality of the face fabrics and
non woven
interlining used in making samples does not always conform to the materials
delivered for production. The face fabrics and their interlinings must therefore be
tested again to verify the previously accepted fusing parameters.
One of the first successful applications of nonwovens was as interlinings for
clothing (Assent, 2003). Nonwovens are still widely used for this purpose but are also
used as the main material for protective clothing (Haase, 2003) and increasingly as the
outer layer in fashion-based and technical garments (University of Leeds, 2007). The
making-up of nonwovens is therefore an important consideration. Patterning, cutting and
joining are considered very basically here.
Nonwovens for interlinings are processed in such a way as to give them an adhesive
surface. The patterns for these nonwovens are designed and made together with the
patterns for the upper fabric and garment lining during the pattern design and grading
stages. Table 8.2 outlines the functional aspects of nonwovens that impact on their
performance as interlinings, and highlights the stages of fabric production that affect
these aspects.
Fusing of interlinings in garment manufacturing is a very important process.
Interlinings are the accessories used between two layers of fabric to keep the different
components of apparel in a desired shape or to improve the aesthetics and/or performance.
Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible fabric made of cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose or their blends, which may be coated with some resins. There
are two types of double dot non woven interlining
in use in the garment production: fusible and non fusible. The interlinings are carefully
selected so that they can withstand the conditions during the fabric care and maintenance
without any damage during the useful life of a garment. Once the garments are finished
and inspected, they are packaged and transported to the retailers or the point of sale to
the consumers.
The garment construction and type, notably the number and type of seams, linings and
interlinings as well as cut and style, clearly play a significant role in the draped
appearance of the garment, the presence, nature and bonding of interlinings, etc. having
a major effect. So too will the fabric colour, depth of shade and pattern have a
significant effect, although these effects are essentially optical in nature and not due
to actual changes in the fabric drape per se. With respect to the effects of seams,
including seam and stitch type, these have been studied and reviewed in detail by
Chung,12 Hu17 and Sharrouf,36 their main effects being on the stiffness (both bending and
shear) of the fabric in their immediate vicinity and on their positioning within the
garment.
The garment construction and type – notably the number, positioning and type of
seams, linings and interlinings – as well as cut and style, play significant roles in
the draped appearance of the garment, with the presence, nature and bonding of
interlinings having a major effect. Fabric colours, depths of shade and patterns also
have significant effects, although these are essentially optical in nature and not due to
actual changes in the fabric drape per se. Seams mainly affect fabric stiffness (both
bending and shear) in their immediate vicinity, the magnitude of the effect depending on
their positioning within the garment. For example, bending length tends to increase with
the insertion of a vertical seam, while drape coefficient increases with the addition of
radial seams, and increasing the seam allowance has little effect.
The most important factor for performing qualitative fusing is temperature. It must
correspond to the glue line temperature, required for the certain interlining. However,
the temperature setting or reading on the control panel of a fusing press indicates its
belt temperature, not the temperature applied to the interlining. The real temperature
that will be delivered to the interlining through the face fabric can be determined only
during the test. It can be performed putting special temperature control tape in-between
the face fabric and its interlining sample and fusing them. The colour of the tape will
show the real temperature applied to the interlining. The optimal fusing temperature must
be found for every fabric of the order to avoid its shrinkage or damaging during the
fusing process.
Normal cotton sheeting fabrics were applied with a layer of adhesive that can be
fixed to the shell fabric by application of heat or pressure. This formed a composite
part of the fused shell part and supported the outer shell for better drape and look.
Woven
interlinings are majorly 100% cotton based with a thread density of variable count
as required for the weight or stiffness needed for a particular use. Now poly-cotton
blends are also available to overcome the problems of shrinkage faced in cotton fabrics
together with a variety of warp and weft combination like rayon, texturized poly and wool
etc.
Advantages of woven interlining
The main advantage of woven fabrics is its strength and stability, hence used for all
such applications where strength and stability are needed like the waistband.
However, this could be a disadvantage at times where flexibility and soft hand feel
is required.
Woven is majorly plain weaves, sometimes crepe, herringbone or twill weaves are also
offered according to the application need.
In such cases, texturized poly yarns are used for voluminous body, soft and natural
hand feel or drape of the fused composite at the same time strength, flexibility and
lightweight of the fused laminate is achieved without much altering the natural drape or
texture of shell fabric.
However, woven is expensive and not suitable for less expensive casual garments
hence, it was replaced by knitted fabrics that used a combination of synthetic yarns with
rayon and wool for body and volume according to different application intended for.
As the name implies there is no involvement of any yarn for interlacement to make the
fabric.
It is made directly from fiber to fabric stage in the process reducing the cost of
base fabric. As there is no yarn used in making nonwovens, it lacks in strength needed
for apparel use and there are many techniques applied to impart required strength to
nonwoven textiles, called Bonding. They are the most versatile product available from
10gsm to 200gsm and above, offering light, soft, flexible or strong for any application
one can think of. The basic manufacturing technique is using mostly synthetic fibers to
form a layer, which are imparted strength by bonding.
Let us understand the different layering and bonding methods, their use and their
advantages and disadvantages.
Seema Impex, Established in 2018 at Delhi in Delhi, is leading Importer, Supplier of
Interlinings & Linings in India. Seema Impex is one of Trade India's verified and
trusted sellers of listed products. With their extensive experience of supplying and
trading Black Double Dot Stretch Lycra Fusing Interlining, Seema Impex has made a reputed
name for themselves in the market with high quality Black Double Dot Stretch Lycra Fusing
Interlining, Grey Stretch Microdot Fusing Interlining, Fine Finish Microdot Fusing
Interlining etc.
Focusing on a customer centric approach, Seema Impex has a pan-India presence and
caters to a huge consumer base throughout the country. Buy Interlinings & Linings in bulk
from Seema Impex at Trade India quality-assured products.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending
rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive paste dot non woven
interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for
bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face
fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured
bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven
fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by the KES-FB
system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties
of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became
larger and thicknesses were reduced compared to those before pressing. Bending rigidities
of face fabrics didn’t change though the thicknesses became thinner than before
pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face
fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of
composite with laminated model.
- Created: 19-11-21
- Last Login: 19-11-21